Brakes, Clutches & Gearboxes
Squealing, grinding, slipping or crunching. We measure what is worn, show you what we find and quote before anything comes off.
Brakes And Clutches, Measured Not Guessed.
Braking and clutch problems are the two jobs where people get overcharged the most, usually because a whole system gets replaced when only part of it was worn. We take the wheel off, measure the discs, look at the pads and show you what is actually going on.
Clutches are the same. A slipping clutch and a failed release bearing feel similar from the driver's seat and cost very different amounts. A road test and a proper look underneath takes ten minutes and can save you hundreds.
- Pads, discs and calipers
- Brake pipes, hoses and fluid
- Handbrake adjustment and repair
- Clutch kits and release bearings
- Dual mass flywheels
- Gearbox repairs and replacements
Braking Or Clutch Trouble?
Pick what your car is doing and we will tell you what usually causes it.
Grinding or squealing under braking
- 1Worn padsOnce the friction material is gone you are braking on metal, which quickly ruins the discs as well.
- 2Lipped or warped discsA ridge on the edge of the disc or a pulsing pedal means the discs have had their day.
- 3Sticking caliperOne corner drags, gets hot, wears its pad twice as fast and pulls the car under braking.
Clutch slipping or crunching gears
- 1Worn clutch plateRevs rise but the car does not pull, usually worst in third or fourth uphill.
- 2Dual mass flywheelRattle at idle that goes when you dip the clutch, and a shudder as you pull away.
- 3Gearbox or linkageCrunching into second when cold often points at synchros or a worn linkage rather than the clutch.
Vibration through the steering or seat
- 1Wheel balance or buckled rimComes in at a certain speed and disappears again above it.
- 2Warped front discsFelt through the pedal and the wheel under braking rather than all the time.
- 3Driveshaft, CV joint or engine mountVibration under acceleration or a clicking noise on full lock.
Do Not Leave These.
Brakes and clutches almost always warn you before they fail. The warning is the cheap part.
Grinding noise
Grinding means the friction material has gone and the backing plate is cutting into the disc. Every mile from here adds the price of discs to the bill.
Pulling to one side
A sticking caliper drags constantly, cooks its pad, overheats the disc and can pull you towards the kerb under heavy braking.
Spongy or sinking pedal
Air or moisture in the fluid, a leaking cylinder or a failing hose. This is the category where brakes stop working altogether.
Clutch slipping
Revs climb, speed does not. Once it starts slipping it will get worse quickly and can leave you stranded at a junction.
Judder pulling away
Often a contaminated clutch plate or a worn dual mass flywheel. Worth catching before the flywheel damages other parts.
Crunching into gear
Could be the clutch not releasing fully, a hydraulic problem or worn synchros. Cheap to check, expensive to ignore.
Brakes Or Clutch Playing Up?
Get it looked at before it becomes a recovery job. Free quotes across Medway and Kent.
While It's With Us.
Most people get more than one thing sorted in the same visit. It saves you a second trip and usually saves money on labour too.
Car & Van Servicing
Brake and clutch wear gets picked up early at every service we do.
Learn moreMOT Repairs
Brakes are one of the most common MOT failures. We fix them and get you through.
Learn moreDiagnostics
ABS light on as well? We will read the codes and test the sensors properly.
Learn moreCommon Questions.
Pads typically last 25,000 to 40,000 miles and discs often go two sets of pads, but town driving, towing and heavy vans wear them much faster. We measure rather than guess, so you are not replacing discs that still have plenty left.
Not always. If the discs are above the minimum thickness, are not badly lipped and run true, new pads on their own are fine. We will measure them in front of you and tell you either way.
That is usually warped or unevenly worn front discs. It can also be a sticking caliper heating one side up. Both are straightforward to check on the ramp.
The classic signs are revs rising without the car pulling, a high biting point, a shudder pulling away or a smell of burning on hills. If you can, get it looked at before it fails completely and leaves you stuck.
Yes. If the flywheel is worn we will tell you before the job starts, because fitting a new clutch to a tired flywheel is a false economy. You get the option either way and the price for both.
Yes, vans are a big part of what we do. Vans work harder and clutches wear faster, especially on heavily loaded work vehicles, so it is worth catching early.
Book It In.
Send us the vehicle and what it is doing. We will come back with an honest price and when we can take it.